On the Ground, Outside the Grounds
November 5-7, 2021
I’m on the ground in Scotland. My official badge to COP26 isn’t active until Monday, but there is plenty of COP-related action outside of the Blue Zone (the official negotiations site) around Glasgow.
On Friday, I landed in Edinburgh and then bussed down the road to Glasgow. I arrived at George Square, expecting to find the Fridays for Future march and rally.
Not quite. The march was large and took a long time to arrive.
In the meantime I got to the main priority for the day, meeting my old friend Andrew during the brief window we overlapped in Glasgow (he works for an international reforestation organization out of Kenya). It was a joy to catch up with him and meet his buddies at a pub.
Returning to George’s Square, I found it swelled with marchers. This was primarily a youth strike, part of the Fridays For Future movement that has been striking every Friday around the world for several years. But it drew a large, broad-based group—especially the march itself, with estimates of 30,000 strong. At George Square we heard a series of speakers, starting with Indigenous youth from Ecuador and Brazil, and including Vanessa Nakate and Greta Thunberg (see my Instagram highlights for clips of their speeches).
The crowd size and dynamic reflected the sense of frustration expressed by many civil society observers and youth activists so far.
They report there is a stark difference in tone and spirit between the two spheres—inside the COP and outside on the streets. From what I’ve heard in talking with observers of many persuasions is that the proceedings of the COP do not match the urgency, inclusivity, justice focus, and overall spiritedness of those organizing outside. Or, according to many activists, the suits inside lack a clear recognition of how things really are for frontline communities and what must be done as a result.
“That was the first time I’ve heard the truth all week,” remarked my new friend and fellow observer William after the march.
I’d guess this inside-outside dynamic is similar to most COPS and really, to some extent, politics in general. Both spheres—the politicians and the grassroots movements—think the other just talks and doesn’t recognize what real change looks like. A difference is that those with delegate badges at COP have formal state power to enact change and control the conditions of the conditions; those on the streets, though they have lots of informal power, do not.
After the march, some fellows observers got dinner and headed to the camp where my program is staying. The night ended with our Scottish hosts at basecamp lighting off some fireworks for the bizarre holiday Guy Fawkes Day.
Yesterday morning began with COVID-testing at camp, taking the train into Glasgow, and waiting for the 11am People’s March arch to begin. Hanging at St. George’s Tron Church of Scotland with fellow observers and writing this, we see Dr. Katharine Hayhoe doing an interview. We got photos and chatted with her briefly.
St. George’s Tron has made itself into the hub for faith groups (and there are many) at COP26. A great place to eat, drink, and gather for talks, services, etc.
The big COP-related event of the day was The People’s Climate March—Global Day of Action for Climate Justice. Though a global event, with events all over the world, the Glasgow was the headliner. It was interesting to see how many different groups, nationalities, and approaches were represented in the march—a demonstration of how climate concerns intersect with so many others.
Crucially, at the march there was significant presence and leadership from Indigenous tribes from around the world. I joined partway through from St. George’s Tron and met up with friends at the rally. The tone was peaceful and decidedly antagonistic toward the pledges and solutions being pronounced from suits at the blue zone. Like Friday’s march, there was clear frustration with the empty promises, exclusion, and heel dragging. The crowd was reportedly 100,000. Here is a summary of the march.
The night closed with two meaningful team events: a candlelight climate vigil and a group dinner. The dinner comes as the first week’s observers prepare to leave and the week two observers (including me) arrive. It was a fun night to bond as a group and get to know some of the outgoing observers’ stories, interests, and experiences at COP26.
To a person, everyone I’ve met who has been here for week one said it had been incredibly full. There are more worthwhile events, gatherings, and opportunities than one can possibly do. I’ll have to be proactive, decisive, and okay with missing lots of good stuff or not thoroughly documenting what I do see. These posts might be fewer than I initially planned (those who know me know this was entirely foreseeable).
Today is a slower day of getting set for the week of meetings ahead. Looking forward!
Note: On the topic of climate justice, the Do Justice blog posted a short piece I wrote: “Why Care About COP26?”